Rebecca writes: So I have a good news/bad news situation for Thanksgiving. We’re going to my sister’s house and she’s taking care of most of the meal (!!!), but she did ask me to help with the sides. I’d like to make a fresh cranberry sauce, but I’ve never made it before and the truth is that I really don’t like it either, but I thought if it were fresh, it might be good. Also, I’m going to make mashed potatoes and could use some suggestions for how to make them ahead and have them hold ok for driving over to her house. I’m open to flavoring suggestions for those, too. Happy Thanksgiving!
Tony’s take: Personally, I think the sides are as big a deal as the bird on Thanksgiving. And here’s why: each side – stuffing, cranberry sauce, mashed potatoes, gravy, etc… – tends to have its own little cult following at the holiday table (my mom, for instance, eats more cranberry sauce than actual turkey), so a screw-up with the spuds is likely to elicit some sort of passionate response from whomever’s been awaiting non-lumpy mashed potatoes for the last 364. That said, don’t stress it, Rebecca. Both of the sides you’re taking on are relatively simple. Homemade cranberry sauce is exceedingly easy – just cook the fresh berries with sugar and some sort of citrus until they melt together into a sauce. For this, I’d suggest the mellow sweetness of orange as well as some freshly grated ginger to add a little punch. Making ahead mashed potatoes shouldn’t be particularly complicated either, especially if you’re going to make them just before heading to her house. I’d suggest making the potatoes a little richer than normal, folding in some butter when reheating them at her house, so they have a nice creamy texture (and no lumps!). Also, go easy on the mashing the first time around so that the potatoes don’t become gluey during the reheating and secondary mash. As for flavoring, I’d suggest keeping the potatoes simple. Add a couple cloves of garlic to the liquid you use for cooking the potatoes (I like to use milk) and then mash the garlic with the potatoes to give the spuds a smooth but nutty essence.
Cranberry Sauce with Apple and Ginger: Give that 12-oz. bag of cranberries (about 3 cups – frozen would be fine) a rinse and then add them to a saucepan along with 1 1/2 cups sugar, 1 Granny Smith apple (peeled and cut in 1/2-inch dice – about 1 cup), the zest and juice of 1 orange (about 2 tsp. and 1/2 cup respectively), and 1 Tbs. grated (or minced) fresh ginger. Set the saucepan over medium heat and cook, stirring occasionally, until the cranberries start to pop and soften, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat, let cool to room temperature, and then refrigerate for up to 1 week in an air-tight container.
Garlic Mashed Potatoes: Peel 3 lb. Russet potatoes (about 4 large), cut in 1/2-inch pieces, and set in a medium pot. Pour in milk (I like to use whole milk or half and half) or water to cover by about 2 inches (about 2 qt.), 4 or 5 smashed garlic cloves, and a generous sprinkling of kosher salt, about 1 1/2 tsp. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a gentle simmer and cook until the potatoes are completely tender, about 10 minutes. Reserve 2 cups of the cooking liquid, then drain the potatoes. Rice the potatoes into a large bowl (if you have a potato ricer) or simply transfer the potatoes to a large bowl. Mash with 2 Tbs. unsalted butter and some of the cooking liquid, about 1/2 cup, so the potatoes become loose. Season with salt to taste and cover tightly, first with plastic wrap and then with aluminum foil to tote in the car; put the excess cooking liquid in Tupperware. To reheat, slide the potatoes into a wide, heavy-based pot and set over medium-low heat, gently stirring, until they heat through, 10 to 15 minutes. Mash in an additional 2 Tbs. butter as well as some more of the cooking liquid as needed so the potatoes acquire the proper creamy texture. Reseason with salt to taste.
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