Richard writes: I like to make large batches of steamed rice. Normally, I reheat the leftovers in the microwave, but I’ve always been curious about fried rice. Specifically, does it need to be Asian-influenced or could I take the method and apply different flavorings? Thanks, in advance!

Tony’s take: I’m always grateful for questions, but especially for ones like this (ie: something I’ve asked myself before, but have been too lazy to follow up on). Richard, your regular approach to … Continue Reading

Tony writes: I order hot and sour soup most every time I go to a Chinese or Thai restaurant. It’s my thing: the vinegary tang, the heat, the abundance (the broth usually contains some happy mix of unidentifiable, but good, stuff). Over the years, I’ve played around with hot and sour in my own kitchen, but never to great success. Replicating the Chinese version can be less than lovely: there are about 50 different things that go into a … Continue Reading

Tony writes: For a couple of weeks now, I’ve been mulling another go at 10-for-4 (a $10 meal, all in, for a family of 4). Each successive pass by the meat case has pushed me a little closer to country-style ribs. These faux chops from the blade end of a pork loin have always fascinated me; cheap, tasty, and slightly maddening to cook just right (their different muscles present a funky mix of dark and white meat). My vision … Continue Reading

Tony writes: “Peasant cuisine” connotes resourceful, old-fashioned cooking. Take a Tuscan classic like ribollita: simmer aging vegetables, stale bread, and dried beans and you get a smart stew that’s fed centuries of Italians.  But that was then; what should affordable cooking look like now? For all the hand-wringing about our diets, what can you really make on a limited budget that doesn’t involve powdered cheese? Things were quiet on the question front, so I decided to take the … Continue Reading

Tony writes: I’ve silently stood by and watched countless bunches of celery die slow, shriveled deaths in my vegetable crisper. And on more than one occasion, I’ve been asked that excruciating question: “What can I do with all this #$Q!W%! besides ants on a log?”  ”No mas!” I decided this past weekend. From here on, all celery I purchase (or see somebody else purchasing) will be completely utilized; full-blown, nose-to-tail. I accepted the 3/4 bunch left from a grilled … Continue Reading

Dennis writes: I had this idea of starting up a dinner party club with 4 other couples. Each of us will host and prepare a meal: appetizer, main, dessert, and wine. Everyone has signed on and now my wife and I are going first. I want to make something different, challenge myself. I’m thinking something bird-ish for the main course – maybe quail? Any thoughts for this and for the rest of the meal? Thanks!

Tony’s take: Dennis, … Continue Reading

Tony writes: What would “carnitas” be like if reimagined with an Asian pantry? To some extent, Kogi has already answered this question with a flourish, triumphantly folding braised pork into Korean tacos and burritos. But I’ve never been to Kogi (the L.A. food-truck circuit still remains on my gastronomic bucket list), so I’ve been left on my own to indulge my new braise-and-wrap obsession (now, meets SE Asia). The braise-and-burrito technique is a good one. You can slow-cook something big … Continue Reading